MARSHALL: Porky's Smokehouse & Grill
504 East Carolanne Blvd.
Marshall, TX 75672
903-927-2144
Open M-Sat 11-8
Accordion brisket is a phenomenon that occurs when the brisket flat is poorly cooked and the collagen holds the muscle fibers together like a series of tiny rubberbands. When you try to pull the meat apart it should release easily, but when it's undercooked it will spring back like an accordion. The thin slices of beef at Porky's are a shining example of this. They had been trimmed of all fat and crust before they arrived at the table. The plan had been to take them to go, but a heavy rain had just begun so we opened the styrofoam box at a table near the door. Crispy onion rings and sweet beans made for a great combination of sides, but the meat was a disappointment.
Bodacious barbecue is an East Texas chain that gets more accolades that it deserves. I noticed while eating across the region that many joints seemed to emulate the Bodacious style even if they weren't officially affiliated with the chain. Not only is the over-trimmed brisket a signature, but so are the thin and dryish St. Louis style ribs covered in a sweet peppery glaze. The ribs at Porky's had this same profile, but the smoke was nowhere to be found. The meat came easily from the bone, but most of the moisture in the meat was long gone. While slightly better than the brisket, there wasn't enough to make this joint worth returning for.
Rating **
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